Issue # 8 - The Right fit for The Right Size
It was fun when we were little to wear daddy's clothes, and pretend we were big boys; Going to work, briefcase in hand, tie on, morning coffee, the works. Just look at the little guy on the right here...all dressed up, ready for his 9-5 at the office.
Here's the sad thing: Fast forward 20 years and far too many men still look like they're dressing in their fathers' clothing. Tent-like oversized shirts with puffy sleeves, baggy pants and too-long, too-wide ties. In fact 95% of the time, from what i see, the only thing that fits properly, as bad as they are mostly, are their shoes.
So what does one do about this? First of all, get a shirt that fits. Button down dress shirts should fit perfectly. Not too tight, not too loose and JUST enough room to work in. Far too often I see "professionals" with their shirts tucked in and then pulled out to form a type of billowy mushroom type look...almost the shirt equivalent of Mc Hammers' pants. This looks ridiculous, and adds the perception of width to your mid section. If you are a heavier guy, it makes you look heavier. If you are a thin or fit guy, it takes away from your fitness, and makes you look heavier. All in all, it adds weight, which is something you don't want. This same aspect goes for the sleeves...they should fit snug with just enough room to move. They should accentuate your arms, not make them look like they're swimming in a shakespear-esque tunic.
In order to make sure you have enough room to move, and you aren't untucked too much, put your shirt on, and tuck it all the way in. do up your pants and belt, and then lift your arms straight up over your head. Don't stretch them, just raise them. This will lift the shirt just enough out of the pants to give you working room and still be snug enough so you don't look like you're wearing a tent.
You want to look for a shirt that fits you just perfectly. If you wear button downs for a living, and need to look good, then get them tailored. Very rarely will a shirt fit perfectly right off the hanger. Every guy has a couple problem areas...love handles, gut, whatever, that makes a shirt fit just not quite perfect. So get it tailored.
You want as slim a fit as you can get without it constricting your movement. Remember, the baggier it is, the heavier it will make you look. If you're one of those guys who thinks things that fit well are "too tight", my only suggestion is to get used to it. it's not too tight.
Here's how to make sure it's workable: Button your shirt up. Sleeves down, buttoned at the cuff. Put your arm straight out, pinch the fabric at the top of your forearm, and pull upwards. If you have a half inch to an inch or so of slack, then it's a good fit. If you have more than an inch, especially if you have 2 inches or more, then it's too big, or at least the sleeves are. Use this as your guide.
If you're not wearing a tie. then keep the top couple of buttons undone at your discretion. However, if you unbutton more than the collar button and top button, you risk looking like some form of pimp, especially if you're shirtless underneath. Try to avoid this. And please, try to avoid wearing any type of chain or necklace that just doesn't work with your outfit. If you combine the chain with the buttons too far undone, you completely ruin the fact that you're wearing a dress shirt, and instead people will just focus on your open chest. You don't want that, now do you?
On a final note, make sure your button line is straight with the fly of your pants, and you're wearing a nice belt, because now that your shirt isn't billowing out, your belt is going to matter.
Sincerely,
S.G.
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